6 Ways to Fix a Puncture (and you don’t always need the jack)

The spare tire is just as important as the others, but you don’t always need to use it in an emergency. Learn to handle yourself in a compromising situation.

At the dawn of the automotive industry, cars had to share roads with carts and horses. The nails in the horseshoes made the puncture common, and thus the spare tire was born. The first brand to incorporate it on board was Rambler, at the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, the fifth wheel has been a necessity, then an obligation, and finally just an option and this option is available in buy used car online in the UK.

Currently, traffic regulations only require that we carry a system that allows us to continue driving after a puncture, be it a tire or simply a repair kit.

If you just punctured, you know, put on the reflective vest before getting out of the car, mark your location with the triangle and take out the jack (or not necessarily). You are going to fix a puncture and we will help you.

WHAT OPTIONS ARE THERE TO OVERCOME A PUNCTURE?
When it happens to you, you can have several options in your car that will depend on what the vehicle manufacturer has incorporated as standard in your model. These are the options, and with four of them you don’t need to use the jack.

1. AN SAME WHEEL

The so-called fifth wheel that has the same shape, volume and height as the others, with which you just have to mount it and that’s it. There are fewer and fewer brands that incorporate these wheels for economic and space reasons. For the user who knows how to use the jack it is the best option, since it allows him to continue circulating normally and without limitation of mileage and speed.

On the other hand, it often happens that if we have used it, we easily forget to have the flat tire repaired, which means that if we puncture again we may not have it available. You also have to remember to check the pressure from time to time, just like the others.

2. AN EMERGENCY WHEEL

Also known as ‘de Galleta’. It is usually of a smaller size, less thick than the others, and with less resistant materials. So it has a limit of both use and speed. These data appear on the wheel but are generally 80 km maximum distance and a speed not exceeding 80 km / h.

Due to the instability caused by the difference between this wheel and the other three. Reaching a higher speed can dangerously affect the stability of the vehicle, especially when braking. Therefore this wheel will only help us to get to the workshop and little else.

As an advantage, it takes up little space in the trunk and weighs less when mounting. The drawback (apart from the fact that it forces. You to use the jack) is that the damaged wheel must be repaired or replaced as soon as possible. If we are going to do more kilometers than the cookie wheel allows.

3. A REPAIR KIT

It is the biggest trend in the industry today since it allows the total availability of the trunk. Save on costs and provide some comfort when facing the temporary repair of the puncture.

This kit consists of a wrench to remove the valve from the wheel, a new valve. A liquid or chemical foam sealant for the puncture and a compressor to inflate the wheel.

The procedure supposes to be straightforward. Although you have to be sure the fluid has done its job before you get back on the road. As the spare wheel. We will not be able to drive faster than 80 km / h or go much further from the workshop. The downside is that it does not work in case of a blowout or if the puncture hole is too large.

4. THE HOME KIT

There is also a widespread method to temporarily repair a puncture without removing the wheel: it is the so-called wick method. The kit is sold in auto parts stores and consists of a piece of rope impregnate with strong fast glue. Which is inserted into the wheel increasing the size of the hole and seals the air outlet, just like a patch. Here you can see how it is done, although not always everything that indicates is available.

5. ‘RUN-FLAT’ WHEEL

Called anti-punctures (although they also puncture), these are special tires with reinforcements on the sides of the rims that allow them to continue driving after a puncture without the wheel completely staying on the ground. As in the previous cases. We can only go to a maximum of 80 km / h and you have to change the wheel after a few kilometers.

The downside is that by law we also require to carry at least one repair kit in the car. Although in this case, it is useless. This type of wheel is of military origin and so sophisticate that only high-end cars incorporate it. They also usually have sensors that indicate the pressure and its status at all times.

6. THE LAST RESOURCE, THE CRANE

Or the first, depending on how you manage these things. If your insurance company provides you with roadside assistance, it is best to call the tow truck. Whether it is to change the wheel or if it is to apply the repair kit. Even sometimes there is no other choice because. The kit is not enough to cover the hole or because we forgot to inflate the spare tire.

AND HOW DO YOU CHANGE A WHEEL? (IT’S NOT THAT DIFFICULT)

Changing a wheel is like frying an egg, it takes a bit of skill, but it is available to everyone. The first thing to do is put on the reflective vest to get out of the car. Then place the signaling triangle so that they see you and not take you ahead. The rest is even simpler, although it may not seem like it:

  1. Make sure the car is on a flat and stable surface, free from sand, mud, water, etc.
  2. Locate the bolts on the affected tire. They are usually under the hubcap, whether it is a steel or iron rim wheel. Remember that the bezel screws are for decorative purposes only. If it is an alloy wheel, they are visible.
  3. Find and prepare the jack, the socket or socket wrench for the nuts and the spare wheel. If you have security screws, also take out their corresponding key.
  4. Loosen the bolts before jacking up the car. If you see that it costs a lot, it is best to put one foot directly on the key and load the weight of the body on it. Remember that to loosen it is in an anti-clockwise direction.
  5. After loosening the screws, locate the chassis plates that use to place the jack. There are four, one close to each wheel. If you need it, use the car manual for it. Set up the jack and raise the car until the wheel is in the air.
  6. Remove the bolts and replace the wheel. Put the screws back in hand-tight until you can.
  7. Lower the car with the jack and, once the wheel is on the ground, tighten the bolts tightly with the socket wrench. Again, if necessary, use your weight to tighten them better, this time in the same clockwise direction. Make sure that all the screws receive the same torque.

As additional advice, it is good to carry some type of cloth or blanket in the car that you can throw on the ground so that you do not get stain when you change the wheel, especially if you have to go back to the office without getting sooty black. It is also good to wear work gloves, as removing oil from your hands is not easy. If you don’t have fabric, you can use the umbrella as an alternative. Click here